Varanasi, where time slows down, history breathes through its ghats, and every alley has a story to tell. This city isn’t just a destination but it’s an experience. From boat rides on the Ganga to navigating the madness of Gadolia, from witnessing sacred rituals at Manikarnika Ghat to indulging in the city’s best street food, Varanasi hits differently. And, of course, what’s a trip to Varanasi without a bhang story gone wrong?
This journey had it all unfiltered chaos, unexpected downpours, food that soothed the soul (and some that didn’t), and the reality of temple scams that every traveler needs to know. Yet, through all of it, Varanasi never failed to leave me mesmerized.
This is a continuation of my travel blog in Varanasi, so if you haven’t read the previous part, don’t miss out! Catch up on exploring a day in Varanasi and best of Sarnath. If you think Varanasi is just about temples and rituals, think again. This city is an emotion, and I’m here to bring you along for the ride. So, let’s dive in because Varanasi waits for no one.
Day 2: Exploring Varanasi
I woke up at 8 AM, and it was finally boat ride day! I wore a vibrant saree, keeping it desi. As soon as I stepped out of the stay with everyone else, the weather didn’t seem right, but we still hoped for the best and headed to our breakfast spot from Day 1, a local puri-kachori stall run by an old lady serving authentic flavors. This time, I tried some gajar halwa, puri-sabzi, and kachori-sabzi with tea. After a hearty breakfast, we hopped on a rickshaw and headed to Gadolia again for the Ganga ghat boat ride. We reached Beniya and started walking towards Gadolia, stopping for chai and masala dosa along the way.
Just as we were nearing the ghat, it suddenly started raining. We waited, hoping the skies would clear, but as time passed, we realized the rains would only get worse if we didn’t wrap up quickly. While a few of us took shelter under the roof of Ganga Mandir, the others went ahead to negotiate with the boatmen. Finally, one of them agreed to cover all 84 ghats in total.
We began our ride from Dashashwamedh Ghat. It was a magical hour-long journey through the drizzly rain and spine-chilling breeze. The chilled waters of the Ganga made me shiver with cold, but the view of the ghats, each looking back in history, kept me mesmerized. As we drifted along, the boatman narrated stories and myths surrounding each ghat, making the experience even more surreal.
Curious about the untold legends of Varanasi’s ghats? Here's my Stories from the Ghats of Varanasi blog, where I share the fascinating tales our boatman shared during this mesmerizing boat ride.
We went all the way to Assi Ghat, then turned to explore the other half of the ghats before getting dropped off at Manikarnika Ghat. The rain had turned everything into a mess, dirty water puddles and mud filled the alleys. Since we were dropped at Manikarnika Ghat, we also witnessed people carrying corpses for cremation rituals. The air was thick with dust and soot from the burning pyres, but the rain had dampened the deposits, turning everything into a wet, muddy mess as we began walking. Midway through, I stopped for a warm and delicious snack, sweet and masala samosas. But what I loved the most was the rava besan ladoo. After that, I tried Litti Chokha from a small food stall tucked away in one of the alleys. Eventually, we reached Gadolia and stopped for lunch at Banarasiya restaurant. I ordered a dosa and a veg thali, though the menu had plenty of options, these were the only two available at the time. I was tired of the wet weather, and managing the saree felt like a challenge, so we hopped into rickshaws and headed back to our stay to change, rest for a while, and gear up for our next destination of the day.
Our next destination was Banaras Hindu University, known for its very own replica of the Kashi Vishwanath Temple inside the campus and its popular cold coffee. We dressed comfortably and warmly as the temperature kept dropping. Hopping on a rickshaw, we endured a 30-minute ride before finally reaching BHU, right in front of the temple premises. After depositing our footwear, we entered the temple just in time for the aarti. We took the blessings of Lord Kashi and spent some time on the temple’s first floor, soaking in the serene atmosphere. The extreme cold, the chilled marble floors, and the beautifully crafted walls added to the experience. As the temple was about to close, we took our exit and headed for dinner.
We hopped on a shared rickshaw and got dropped off at Lanka. At the restaurant, I had one of the weirdest-tasting veg Chinese combos, a spicy paneer roll, and momos, overpriced and quite disappointing. Once we finished dinner and stepped out, we spotted a government bus heading to Cantt Chowk and boarded it. The public transportation didn’t disappoint, dropping us off at Cantt Chowk, just a short walk from Maldahiya, where our stay was located. Since dinner was far from soul-satisfying, I grabbed some Jhal Muri before heading back and, unable to resist, ordered McD again before calling it a day.
Day 3: My last day in Varanasi.
Visiting Banaras and skipping the most important spots? Not a chance! On the third day of our trip, we set out to explore the temples and experience the darshan. That meant waking up early around 4-5 AM, to start the day. After a quick freshen-up, we hopped on a rickshaw to Kaal Bhairav Mandir, stopping for a cup of tea to shake off the lingering sleepiness.
Since it was a Sunday, the crowd was just starting to build as we joined the queue. Luckily, our darshan took only 45 minutes. Next, we headed to Kashi Vishwanath Temple, which wasn’t too far from where we were, so we decided to walk.
Scam Encounters!
After arriving at Gate 4, we were immediately surrounded by outside vendors and sellers falsely claiming that no facilities were available inside to store our belongings. They insisted that we had to deposit our stuff in their private lockers. Believing them, we decided to use one of these lockers, only to be pressured into buying an offering basket at twice or even thrice the regular price. Running out of time and patience, we reluctantly purchased a single basket.
Meanwhile, one of us proceeded to join the queue for paid passes, which cost ₹300 per person. However, due to insufficient cash, we opted for the free darshan instead. That’s when a local man approached us, offering to help us "pass the checkpoint" for ₹150 per person. Trusting his words, we paid, only to realize that all he did was point us toward the queue from Gate 4. There was no checkpoint to cross; the entry was already free. Another scam.
Once inside, we saw that the temple authorities had provided all the necessary facilities for devotees, including designated areas to safely deposit belongings. Everything we needed was available, contrary to the vendor's deceptive claims.
We deposited our electronic devices at the entrance of the mandir, free of cost, and joined the queue for darshan from Ganga Dwar. From there, we could see the front view of the Kashi temple and also the most talked-about site, Gyanvapi. It took us just 25 minutes to complete the Kashi Vishwanath darshan. Afterward, we sat for a while inside the temple premises before heading to see the Nandi facing the Gyanvapi Masjid. Later, we observed the recently excavated remains from Gyanvapi from a distance, as the area was highly sensitive and under tight security.
Next, we took darshan of Mata Annapurna and received rice grains as prasad, believed to bring prosperity to the kitchen and ensure a household never faces a food shortage. With all the major darshans completed, our main agenda in Banaras was fulfilled, it was time to eat. I tried freshly made Malaio from a nearby food cart, expecting something special, but it tasted just like the one we had yesterday. Then, I had “expensive” Idlis, Dosa, jalebi, and Dhokla, because that’s all we could find on the main street.Bhang Gone Wrong!
Coming to Banaras and not trying Thandai? That’d be a total FOMO! The iconic bhang-infused Thandai comes in different potency levels, and I decided to go for the "Strong" glass. At first, it felt like any regular drink, but within minutes, a light-headed dizziness hit in. By the time we returned to our stay by rickshaw, the effect had fully taken over.
If you're a beginner like me, I wouldn’t recommend jumping straight to the "Strong" Thandai. I started experiencing hallucinations and was completely knocked out. Later, I managed to eat some Rajma Chawal for dinner before calling it a day and let’s just say that I slept like a baby.With Banaras ticked off my list, the journey wasn’t over yet. Next stop: Ayodhya Dham. Stay tuned for my next blog, where I’ll share how to make the most of two days exploring the best of Ayodhya!
Wrapping Up
My second day in Varanasi was magical, but my third day? Absolute chaos. And that’s exactly what makes traveling unforgettable,the unexpected twists, the raw experiences, and the memories that stick with you long after the trip ends. From peaceful boat rides to temple darshans, scam encounters, and the wild bhang experiment, Banaras gave me everything,the good, the bad, and the unbelievable. This city isn’t just a destination; it’s an experience. It overwhelms you, surprises you, and pulls you into its madness. The narrow alleys, the relentless crowds, the spiritual energy,it’s a beautiful mess, and I wouldn’t have it any other way.