Visiting Banaras? Also known as Varanasi, the spiritual heart of India, was not really a part of my plan but me being me never saying no to plans and exploration didn’t stop me from visiting one of the most beautiful places one can ever visit. To be spiritually connected to the roots and the really ancient history this destination holds makes it even better. Experience the magic of Sarnath, the vibrant ghats, and the soulful streets of Varanasi. All without burning a hole in your pocket.
Day 1: Exploring Varanasi
Visiting Varanasi is definitely a group thing, and I was in a group of seven. We travelled on an overnight train journey and finally arrived at Varanasi Junction after a 6-hour delay, thanks to Indian railways. But like I said, everything happens for a reason, and the delay benefitted us because our expected arrival at the Varanasi station was around 2 a.m. We wouldn’t have been able to check in that early anyway! So, we reached Varanasi Junction at 7 in the morning, and as soon as we exited, a swarm of rickshaw drivers surrounded us. Now, most likely to get scammed and we did because we had enough luggage too. We all got clumped up in a single EV rickshaw and got dropped off at our Aastha Homestay in Maldahiya, only 500 meters from the station.
Stay
There are multiple stay options catering to all kinds of travelers in Varanasi, from groups to solo travelers. From budget-friendly dorms to homestays and hotels, everything is available. You can make bookings prior or just go for a stay hunt on the day you arrive.
Right after dumping all the luggage in the room, we headed out to have homely tea served in cute clay cups at a nearby stall and enjoyed the freshly made local kachori sabzi within walking distance. Later, we freshened up and had aloo and paneer parathas served with green chutney and gravy for breakfast at the stay itself. Now, it was finally time to explore like a nomad.
We started our day with a visit to Sarnath, a place of immense historical and spiritual significance. Sarnath is where Buddha delivered his first sermon, and the peaceful vibe of the place made it an unforgettable experience. To read about my detailed experience exploring Sarnath, click here. After spending the first half of the day there, we made our way to the iconic Ganga Ghats.
Up next, we had planned to witness the Ganga Aarti at the Ganga ghats, so we hopped on the E-rickshaw again and headed straight to the ghats. Due to some restrictions imposed by the temple association to manage the crowd, rickshaws are allowed only up to Gate No. 4 before 9 a.m. and after 10 p.m. This rule ensures safety and avoids traffic jams on the narrow roads. The rickshaw guy dropped us at Beniya Chowk, and we had to walk the rest of the way to the ghats.
For evening snacks, I tried the UP-style pani puri and was confused about whether I liked it or not. But the bhel was just perfect. I almost walked around 1.2 kilometers to finally arrive at the busy, crowded, and ancient ghats of Varanasi. My first look at the ghats was just complete awe. The glimmery yet calm waters of the Ganga, local boats and ferries parked at the riverbanks, the long line of vibrant ghats, and the setting sun were just the cherry on top.
The crowd grew bigger as everyone searched for spots to settle down for the trendy Ganga Aarti, which starts at 6:30 p.m. sharp. People started gathering as early as 4 p.m. to get the best views. I managed to get a spot right in front of the stands where the pujari performs the puja. Initially, I thought I hit the jackpot until a bunch of late arrivals blocked everything to take videos and pictures despite repeated requests from the authorities. I applied a chandan tilak, patiently waited, and enjoyed the vibe, the preparations, and the cool air filled with fragrant incense. Singing along to mass bhajan kirtan and chanting “Ram Ram” was an experience in itself.
The Aarti was special, aiming to clear the onset of physical darkness in the evening and the darkness of ignorance. The conch shell blew for nearly five minutes to start the rituals. The Aarti offered to Goddess Ganga in her temple and then the river used symbolic elements: the lighted diya representing agni (fire), flower petals representing prithvi (earth), sprinkled water for jal (water), the yak-tail fan for akash (space), and the peacock fan for vayu (air).
After the Aarti, we explored the streets and food of Varanasi. The streets of Varanasi are a vibrant experience that captivates all who enter. Alive and chaotic, they showcase a unique charm. As you navigate the narrow lanes, colorful shops offer exquisite Banarasi sarees, handmade trinkets, and tempting street food. The rich aroma of jalebis and incense fills the air, creating an unforgettable atmosphere. It was a massive crowd with people, cars, two-wheelers, and handcarts all sharing the same space, making it hard to walk or navigate.
We grew hungry by dinner and searched for authentic Varanasi food but couldn’t find any. Most places offered food from other states dosa, idli, pav bhaji, and chole bhature likely due to the high number of tourists. We tried veg momos, which were nice, but the tamatar chaat from Kashi Chat Bhandar was a disaster. The moment I took a bite, I spat it out because it was stale. Hungry and frustrated, I bought 250 grams of fresh peas and kept searching. To my surprise, even the vendors couldn’t direct us to authentic food spots. I eventually gave up and ate a plate of pani puri. For dessert, we tried to have the famous malaio at Shree Ji’s but found out it’s only sold in the mornings. Instead, we had rabdi, which was rich, creamy, and flavorful. Finally, a win! I also tried thandai on the way back, which was tasty and satisfying.
Exhausted, we called it a day. We returned to Beniya Chowk, found a kind rickshaw driver who recommended a restaurant named Litti Chokha, and headed back to the hotel. I wrapped up my day with a McDonald’s burger and peri-peri fries because I was still hungry.
Disappointments with Varanasi Food
Let me tell you why the so-called famous food places in Varanasi disappointed me:
- They don’t offer authentic Varanasi food.
- The food isn’t worth the hype or the price.
- The best places are far apart and scattered in different directions.
Wrapping up!
The overall travel journey was fun, adventurous, and something I still recall with a smile. From the serene ghats to the quirky experiences, Varanasi and Sarnath have a charm that’s hard to forget. Stay tuned for Day 2 and Day 3 of my trip, where I explore more of what this vibrant city has to offer!