How it all started?
I had just graduated, my exams were behind me, and I finally had my results. Now what? With my mind racing and my eager eyes zooming in and out of maps, I started searching for my next travel destination. That’s when I remembered my plans to visit my relatives in Odisha and my wish to see Jagannath Dham in Puri. I had heard about the pristine blue-flagged beaches with soft, clay-like sand and towering waves crashing against the shore- quite different from what we have on the west coast.
Last time, my plans were a thumbs-down by a surprise assessment exam and my sister’s project submissions. I didn't want to postpone it again. With everything wrapped up now, it felt like the perfect time. So, my sister and I decided to meet up at our relatives' place, saving on accommodation costs, and set out to explore the best of Odisha on a budget. So stick with me as I share my experiences and expenses on this trip!
Note: Visiting Odisha in summers(May-July) is NOT the best time, check the temperature and weather forecast before traveling. But if you’re Spontaneous like me then definitely carry summer essentials and wear socks to avoid burning your feet on the hot stones. Trust me, I almost burnt mine!
My train journey - Indian railways never fails to disappoint
Due to the availability of tickets and for the first time I had booked a train departing from Lokmanya Tilak Terminus, Kurla. The train was supposed to depart from the station around 1:30pm in the afternoon which got rescheduled around 6pm in the evening. I had to wait in the waiting room. And yet the train arrived at 7pm and didn't start moving until 8pm. I was already so exhausted and the summer nearly had me fainted. When I looked into retiring rooms online on the portal they displayed what was available. But upon arriving I see that they're still under construction. My train was so late that I was supposed to reach my uncle's place early at 1am in the morning but I ended up reaching at past 11 am on the third day of travel. I was totally drained and exhausted. Most of the travelers canceled their reservations due to extreme delay of the train arrival to Mumbai and and the coaches were filled with the most without holding a valid ticket. The train journey was most likely to get canceled but it didn't and I'm glad.
Luckily, the people occupying the seats opposite to me were nice and we had conversations and shared experiences and more. The only best part of my train journey.
Day 1 - Bhubaneswar
We kicked off our journey to Bhubaneswar via local train, which took about 40-60 minutes to reach Bhubaneswar Jn railway station. As soon as we exited the station, we decided to find a shared rickshaw to Lingaraj Temple. After a bit of waiting and watching several rickshaws pass by, we finally snagged one. We had agreed on the destination before hopping in, but halfway through the ride, the rickshaw driver quoted a higher price than we had initially agreed upon. To avoid the scorching daytime heat, we continued our journey. My first impression of the city, peeking out of the rickshaw, was that it was colorful, creative, and clean. I was excited to see more as our adventure had just begun.
Upon arriving at Lingaraj Temple, we deposited our shoes, bags, and mobile phones at the counter, which was payable. Entering the temple, I was amazed by the detailed craftsmanship and architectural design. We even had a brief chat with one of the pandit jis sitting in the temple shade. We later joined the queue and received blessings from the Shiv-Vishnu lingam and various other gods and goddesses around the temple complex, including temples for Ganesh, Savitri, and Kashi. To my surprise, for the first time, I saw a temple dedicated to Yamaraj, the god of death. There's also a sacred tree in the temple adorned with items like red bangles, sindoor, kumkum, etc., and a cute elephant sculpture at its base in the front. Around noon, offerings are made to the lingam, and later, the paid bhog is distributed among the devotees.
After our mandir exploration, we exited the temple, collected our belongings, and enjoyed some street snacks: Gupchup (the Odia version of panipuri), Chuski (the Odia version of shaved ice) with syrup bottles so sweet that honey bees were buzzing around the stall, and coconut water to rejuvenate ourselves in the heat.
Next, we headed to Mukteshwar Temple. We tried walking part of the way, but the extreme heat led us to take a rickshaw instead. We got a bit lost, but a kind local pandit ji helped us out. Upon reaching Mukteshwar Temple, it was around 2 PM, and the heat was at its peak, so we waited until 3 PM before exploring. Meanwhile, we snacked on some food we had brought along and chatted with a tourist family from Lucknow enjoying their summer holidays.
There are many places to visit around Mukteshwar; every alley and street has something to offer. The main ones you must visit are:
- Shree Parsurameshwara Temple
- Rajarani Temple
- Shree Brahmeswar Temple
- Bindu Sagar Pond
- Kedara Gouri Temple
- Bhaskareshwara Temple
We were exhausted, and it was almost evening, so we headed to New Building Market by rickshaw for some shopping. It finally started raining as we reached Kalpana Square, and we felt blessed and grateful to Indra Dev after such a hot day, though it eventually turned into a storm. We had our evening snacks there, including roasted corn, average steamed and fried chicken momos, and the best refreshment, Pudina-flavored Goli Soda. After shopping, we asked an old couple where to find the best Chenna Poda, Rasgulla, and other popular Odia sweets. They suggested a sweet shop around the Rajmahal Square intersection, which was bustling with people enjoying their evening snacks, fritters, samosas, sweets, chowmein, etc. We tried authentic Rasgulla, Chenna Poda, Gulab Jamun, and another baked sweet. It was tasty but quite sweet and a bit pricey compared to other shops. Finally, we tiredly walked back to the railway station and headed home, wrapping up our first day in Bhubaneswar.
Avoid Petty Rickshaw Scams
It's crucial not to fall for petty rickshaw scams. Always negotiate well. As a non-native, they might charge you 3-4 times more than the actual fare. Kalpana Square, also known as Kalpana Chowk, is a central hub for most places to visit. It's best to get a rickshaw from the railway station to Kalpana Square, and from there, you can continue to your desired destination. Alternatively, local state transportation buses are a good option with both AC and non-AC options available at reasonable fares.
Day 2 - Puri
I have shared my Jagannath Puri experience in detail, so make sure you don't miss it. From Rukmini Harana Ekadashi to many more stories, visit the link to read about my Jagannath Dham journey.
Next, we headed to Puri Beach. We managed to negotiate a fair rate with a rickshaw driver, avoiding the high-charge scams. After arriving at the beach, we decided to have dinner first. By that time, there were plenty of families and groups around. We enjoyed a delicious meal and then spent time on the beach, feeling the cool breeze, the soft sand, listening to music, and watching the waves crash on the shore under the moonlight.
Initially, we didn’t notice anything unusual, but things took a turn when a grown man began harassing us. He loitered around, forced conversation, and even chased us. Without any security or police presence, we knew we had to flee quickly.
We asked a sibling duo passing by to stay with us until our booked cab arrived. This chilling experience left a mark on me. Unfortunately, we couldn't enjoy the beach as much as we wanted—the soft clay-like sand, big water waves, and fresh breeze were all we wanted in June. We went back to Jagannath Temple, where there were always people around. We thanked the Lord for keeping us safe.
Note: Avoid beaches after 9 PM and tag along with someone you trust or a family member.
Day 3 - Konark
After taking a day off to rest from our Puri trip, we continued our journey. We headed back to Bhubaneswar Junction railway station and walked straight to the nearby bus stand. We boarded a non-AC bus to the Konark Sun Temple. If we had waited for the AC bus, which was due in 30 minutes, we would have been late. Both AC and non-AC options are available, but brace yourself for a 2-hour one-way journey. Start early to make the most of your day.
On the bus, we met a mom and her son. They weren't native but Hindi speakers, so my sister helped translate between them and the bus conductor. That’s how we got to know each other. The mom shared their experience of being “looted” by high rickshaw prices and the rude behavior they faced. On the way, the bus halted for free buttermilk, and then we resumed our journey. After a while, we reached the Konark bus stop and walked to the Sun Temple. Make sure to ask locals for directions to the entrance, so you don’t end up at the exit like we did. We ended up going in the same direction as the mom and son, so we all went together.
Remember: Paid washroom facilities are only available outside. Be smart and book your tickets online to skip the usual queues. You can only view the temple from a distance.
The moment I first laid eyes on the Konark Sun Temple, I was truly mesmerized. The temple stands majestically, a true testament to the brilliance of ancient Indian architecture. As I approached, the intricate carvings and sheer scale of the structure left me amazed. The Konark Sun Temple is designed in the shape of a massive chariot, dedicated to the Sun God, Surya. The temple is aligned so that the first rays of the sunrise strike the main entrance, symbolizing Surya's arrival to bless the temple.
We had Gupchup and Chuski before exiting the Sun Temple and heading to Chandrabhaga Beach, which is 3-4 km away. We took a rickshaw to the beach, enjoyed the soft sand, made a sandcastle, and relished the cool breeze and waves while avoiding any weirdos around. As the sun was about to set, we left the beach and waited for a bus to take us back to the railway station. Meanwhile, we refilled our bottles, had a warm cup of tea, and cleaned ourselves as we were still covered in sand. We boarded our bus, and I was so tired that I didn’t wake up until we arrived at our destination. We had some evening snacks—Chicken Chow Mein and Chicken Eggroll—and finally bid adieu and returned home.
Interesting Facts
1. Legend has it that the temple originally had a massive lodestone at the top, which caused magnetic disturbances for ships passing through the Bay of Bengal. This lodestone was later removed by Portuguese sailors.
2. Sun Dials: The wheels of the chariot are not just decorative; they also function as accurate sundials. The shadow of the spokes indicates the time of day, a testament to the scientific knowledge of the ancient builders. The Konark Sun Temple is not just a monument, it is a timeless masterpiece that continues to inspire.
Conclusion
Exploring Odisha has been such an eye-opener and an experience I’ll never forget. From the ancient temples to the beautiful beaches, every moment was amazing. Despite the unexpected twists, traveling on a budget in Odisha turned out to be a fantastic adventure. Meeting friendly locals, enjoying tasty street food, and soaking up the state's rich culture made it all worthwhile.
If you're planning a budget-friendly trip to Odisha, get ready for some surprises and embrace the spontaneity. Bring your summer essentials, stay hydrated, and always have a backup plan for getting around. The best travel stories often come from the unplanned moments and the people you meet along the way.