Why did we choose Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar as our destination?
Our purpose for visiting Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar (previously named as Aurangabad) was to explore its rich historical and cultural heritage, especially the renowned Ajanta and Ellora Caves. These caves, famous for their stunning mural paintings and intricate carvings, offer a unique glimpse into ancient Buddhist and Hindu art and architecture. Additionally, Sambhaji nagar's blend of natural beauty, such as its mesmerizing hills and waterfalls, and the city's historical significance, combined with its affordability, made Sambhaji nagar the perfect budget-friendly destination for a memorable and enriching travel experience.
Best places we visited in two days -
- Bibi ka Maqbara
- Grishneshwar Mahadev Jyotirling
- Ellora caves
- Bhadra Maruti temple
- Aurangzeb’s tomb
- Ajanta caves
Day1: Let’s Begin
My plans were quick, and we had no last-minute train reservations from Mumbai, so we had to stay flexible with our plans. Instead, we booked a sleeper AC bus and enjoyed a comfortable overnight journey. We boarded our bus from Mumbai around 10 PM and reached Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar in the morning, feeling refreshed. We were dropped off at Baba Petrol Pump around 7 AM. With only our backpacks, we headed straight to Bibi ka Maqbara by hiring a direct rickshaw. We skipped Pan Chakki on the way, as the rickshaw driver told us it’s no longer working, but it used to provide energy to the city.
I recommend starting your exploration early to avoid the crowd and escape the heat. Bibi ka Maqbara, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a monument built by Azam Shah in memory of his mother, the wife of Emperor Aurangzeb. At first glance, I thought, "What in the world is the Taj Mahal doing here?" as it closely resembles the mesmerizing design, though built with a smaller budget. The sunrise rays reflecting on the white-yellowish marble and entering the tomb through the windows amplified the beauty of the detailed craftsmanship. Regular temperature checks inside the monument are recorded, as the footprint is one reason for its gradual decay over time. I noticed various coins and currencies around the coffin, which, as told by the “temperature recorder guy,” were due to some superstitious belief started randomly in the past. After spending a while exploring the other monuments around the premises, and taking lots of photos, we enjoyed our time. After spending around an hour here, we exited Bibi ka Maqbara, and took a shared rickshaw to the central bus stand to cover the rest of the spots planned for the first day.
We inquired about the local bus to Ellora Caves and boarded it. The bus conductor suggested we should take a daily bus pass instead of a single ticket, as the places we're about to visit are along the same route. We decided to visit Grishneshwar Jyotirlinga - my first jyotirlinga visit. We were asked to deposit our devices as photography inside the temple is strictly prohibited. We felt the quiet, peaceful, and positive energy, unbothered by the havoc created by the vendors outside. Men were asked to enter bare-chested in the temple. I learned that the current structure of the temple was built by Queen Ahilyabai Holkar. After seeking Mahadev's blessings, we headed to Ellora Caves by local bus.
There are a total of 34 caves: the Jain Temples (No. 30-34) in the north, the Hindu temples and caves (No. 13-29) in the center, and the Buddhist caves (No. 1-12) in the south. We started trekking from the south, visiting the stunning Buddhist caves and admiring their structure. They even had water storage wells to collect and harvest rainwater, with slim carved pavements on the mountain for water passage, maybe a drain system? After completing the southern caves, we took a short break and headed to the Hindu temples in the center. We saw the marvelous Kailasa Temple (No. 16) - the world’s largest monolithic structure. It is located just at the entrance, and I highly suggest spending a good amount of time here.
Although most caves have sculptures and paintings, here’s a list of caves with outstanding architecture that you must visit:
- The Rameshwar Temple (Cave No. 21)
- The Kailasa Temple (Cave No. 16)
- The Dashavatara (Cave No. 15)
- The Vishwakarma (Cave No. 10)
- The Dhumar Lena Cave (Cave No. 29)
- Chota Kailash (Cave No. 30)
- The Indra Sabha (Cave No. 32)
- The Jagannath Sabha (Cave No. 33)
We kept ourselves hydrated, and it took almost 3 to 4 hours to complete the cave exploration. I strongly suggest exploring thoroughly as there are few hidden gems that you must see with your own eyes. Exhausted from all the trekking and exploration, we chose to ride an e-vehicle service to get down the hill. We bought some snacks – cucumber slices and guava with masala sprinkled over them. After saying goodbye to the Ellora Caves, we visited Bhadra Maruti Mandir, seeking the sleeping Hanuman’s blessings. I wanted to stay longer, but the mosquitoes didn’t let me. Next, we headed to Emperor Aurangzeb's tomb. According to his wish, he was buried near the dargah of Sheikh Zainuddin, a Sufi who was also his "spiritual and religious teacher," though he died in Ahmednagar.
It was finally time to check into the hotel room, have some food, and take a great nap after a tiring day. A few days before our visit, we browsed the internet, made online hotel reservations at Hotel Kartiki, and got a steal deal using a coupon. We ordered ourselves a delicious Chicken Tikka Masala with naan (recommended) and the bland Chicken Biryani from the same hotel we were staying at and called it a day.
You may choose to visit : Daulatabad Fort which we had to miss due to time constraints and tiredness which closes by 5pm.
Day2: Let's continue
We braced ourselves and started our day early for a four-hour bus journey.
- From CBS to Ajanta Highway
- From Highway to Ajanta Caves
What makes Ajanta Caves special and different from the Ellora Caves we visited? It’s the artistic mural paintings, mainly in the Buddhist caves. We headed to the Central bus stand and boarded the state transport bus to Ajanta Caves or "leni." I looked out of the window and caught up on my sleep. The state transport only drops you at the highway. To get to the caves, you need to enter the complex, buy a return bus ticket to reach the starting point of the caves, and board another bus that takes you up the hill to the caves. This is where the fun begins: mesmerizing scenes, hills, greenery—make sure you don’t miss it. Once we arrived, we took our paid entry tickets and started exploring the caves by numbers. Remember, you need to remove your footwear to enter most of the caves. I was wearing shoes and had to keep taking them off and putting them back on until I just decided to hold them. Direct flash over the wall paintings and around the caves is prohibited.
Here’s a list of caves with murals you must visit:
- Caves No. 1, 2, 6, 9, 10, 12, 17, 19, 26.
If you’re visiting for the first time, all 31 caves are worth a visit. Make sure you look at the pretty ceilings as well. It took us almost 3-4 hours to explore, and we decided to relax, enjoy the view, the waterfall, and the shade under the carved caves before leaving. At the end of the caves, you’ll see buses waiting to take passengers back to the highway. We returned the same way but had to wait for the bus from the highway to CBS and squeezed ourselves into a crowded bus. I ended up sleeping on the bus and woke up only at CBS. As soon as we got off the bus, I was glad we went for some evening snacks before entering the hotel, followed by some coffee at night.
A big NO to Biryani here - unpleasant experience.
After having below-average biryani on the first day, we placed an order for biryani with high hopes from a well-reviewed restaurant, and to our surprise, it turned out to be awful. Even a simple veg pulao would have been better. We couldn’t finish it and just decided to wrap up for the day.
Day 3: That's a wrap!
The next day, we wrapped up in the morning because we had to catch a train back to Mumbai (JANSHATABDI EXPRESS) and check out of the hotel. We got into a shared rickshaw to Aurangabad Station, had a South Indian breakfast at UDUPI hotel, then boarded our train and said goodbye to this city of gates.
Here’s the cost breakdown of my journey
Conclusion
Our journey to Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar was an enriching blend of historical exploration and natural beauty, all while being budget-friendly. We delved into the rich heritage of the Ajanta and Ellora Caves, marveled at the architectural wonders like Bibi ka Maqbara and the Kailasa Temple, and enjoyed the serene ambiance of places like the Grishneshwar Mahadev Jyotirling and Bhadra Maruti Temple. The affordability of our trip, from transportation to accommodation, made it an ideal destination for a memorable adventure without breaking the bank. Our experience in this city of gates was not only educational but also provided stunning landscapes and cultural insights that will stay with us forever.